Years ago, I would plan my fishing trips back to Venice, Louisiana and fish for yellowfin tuna on Super Bowl weekend. Most times, we would take a tuna trip out on Saturday, the eve of Super Bowl Sunday and then again on Super Bowl Sunday. The evening would be capped off watching the Super Bowl at the Venice Marina with a lot of like-minded fishermen and charter captains. This was back when yellowfin tuna was my target species, and we were riding in a big 39-foot Contender offshore boat, going out into the gulf 70-80 miles to fight giant yellowfin tuna. This was two shoulder surgeries, a back surgery, a knee replacement and a couple three hernias ago. Some trips were pre-Katrina trips, and a few were post Katrina trips, so I’ve seen a few changes down there over the years. Belle Chase, Louisiana was my home from late July of 1993 through late July of 1997 and I logged quite a few memories prior to leaving the area and transferring to Atlanta, Ga. during my Navy career. I’ve always longed to return to Louisiana, but my annual trips back have softened a bit, you might say, as I no longer seek the thrill of fighting a 100-pound beast tethered to the end of a thick stick, in the middle of the deep blue ocean, but now I choose to stay in the comforts of the marsh, where the water is no more than waist deep, and I can chase a worthy adversary, the redfish, during my trips back to Louisiana.
There’s not a lot of things in my life anymore that can tap into the kind of adrenaline rush I used to get from running around the flight deck of an aircraft carrier during flight operations. There wasn’t a day that went by when I was on the flight deck that my adrenaline wasn’t pumping like crazy and the thrill of dancing with danger had me jacked from dawn till well into the night. It seems that the only other time I can get close to that kind of thrill is on a fishing trip. Whether it was pike fishing with bears in northern Canada or surviving an overnight storm on a rickety old commercial fishing boat, anchored on a reef off the sandy shores of Key West, I’ve had a few thrills on fishing trips over the years and each time it happens, it brings back a spark of that old adrenaline rush from my glory days in the Navy. I got to feel just a bit of that old spark again at the mouth of the mighty Mississippi while in pursuit of the Louisiana red snapper this past week.
When I saw that the creel limit of red snapper was four down in Louisiana this snapper season, I had to plan my annual trip to coincide with the starting week of snapper season. I was always reluctant to make the trip to Fla. for my bucket list red snapper due to the creel limit being two snappers. It just wasn’t worth the trip for a couple snapper, but the quotas for red snappers were higher this year down in Louisiana, so it fell right into my wheelhouse. I’ve always warned others going down with me, that we are always going to be at the mercy of the weather, and you never can tell what kind of plans mother nature has in store. Making fishing plans in Venice ahead of time and hitting a two day stretch of good weather in the spring is like walking into a casino in Vegas and throwing it all down on red at a roulette wheel, you’ve got a 50-50 chance as it either happens, or it doesn’t. When I phoned Billy, owner of The Venice Fishing Lodge, my biggest interest was a combination snapper and redfish charter for 2 days and staying 3 nights at the lodge. Billy was more than happy to set the trip up with one of his snapper charter captains and after a down payment on the trip we were all set to fish for snapper.
Everything is inclusive at the Venice Fishing Lodge and the charter captains are all very experienced when it comes to finding the fish to make your trip a memorable one. Sandy and Mannie do the cooking for the lodge and it’s always a treat to sit around the big dinner table and listen to everyone sharing stories from the days fishing while having a 5-star meal. On our most recent trip there were two other fishermen from Kansas, three from Tennessee and on the last evening at the lodge, another 3 rolled in from Texas. This was during the middle of the week and the weekend crowd hadn’t even begun to arrive. We were going to roll into the lodge on Tuesday afternoon, fish Wednesday and Thursday, then let out for home early Friday morning. That was the plan, and my good friend Jimmy Sanders was the perfect partner to get it done. Jimmy is like me, retired and has plenty of time on his hands so I invited him along on the journey. Jimmy had an interest in the red snapper as well and Jimmy is a much better driver than I am, so we loaded up Jimmy’s decked out Dodge truck with enough clothing to last for a few days and a big cooler for the fish filets, and off we went.
The thing about Jimmy driving is that he can kick the Dodge up to a pretty quick pace and the miles just fly by because there’s hardly ever a lack of conversation. Jimmy is a talker and I’m a talker so before you know it, another 100 miles had flown by in no time. Besides gas stops and maybe a quick bathroom break on the way, the first order of business is to have lunch at Salvo’s Seafood Restaurant and Market in Belle Chase, La. They have the best seafood around and it’s a local favorite as well as a favorite for hungry fishermen on their way to Venice. Jimmy and I grabbed a Po’boy and while we were there eating, I noticed that the restaurant was packed. When the Salvo’s restaurant is busy down there the economy is booming and later, I realized it was mainly from the nearby LNG project.
After we had lunch at Salvo’s, it’s about another hour or so down to the Venice Fishing Lodge and that’s when the fun always starts. Dinner is served around 6:30 and the lodge has plenty of areas to hang out after your fishing trip is over and you’re waiting on dinner.
After dinner there is always more conversations between the guests, billiard games to be played and fishing shows to watch on the big screen tv’s before turning in for the night in anticipation of the next day’s fishing.
When Jimmy and I arrived on Tuesday, it was early afternoon and the charter boats and guests were just returning with the days catch so Jimmy and I found our sleeping arrangements and then met up with Neil, the head charter captain and pseudo-operations manager at the lodge. Neil told us that our guide for the snapper and redfish combo both days would be Jay Winters, and we would meet him at the lodge in the morning at 6am during breakfast. We had never met Jay before, but Neil said he was a good dude and a very seasoned charter captain, so we were all set. Jimmy and I spent the afternoon shooting billiards and chatting with the other guests before dinner started. Mannie was our cook for the first evening and I got a chance to catch up with her on the latest goings on at the lodge and the surrounding area. Mannie and I know some of the same local folks from the area that I knew back in the 90’s and it’s always good to get caught up on the latest local news with Mannie. After dinner there was more visiting before hitting the sack and calling it a day.
Wednesday morning came early for me as I’m the guy who wakes up the chickens in the morning. I usually get up somewhere between 3:30 and 4am, ready to start my day. I believe in getting the most out of a day and my day starts early. Back at home, our cat has learned my routine and will usually assist in waking me up if I sleep past 4am, but it’s rarely needed. A few trips back, I asked Mannie if I could go to the kitchen and make coffee since I get up so early and she gave me permission so I’m usually hanging out in the kitchen of the lodge very early, sipping my coffee and reading the news. Sometimes the charter captains will stay at the lodge but most of the captains have homes in the area to go home to. Chris is a charter captain that stays the night at the lodge and he’s usually one of the first ones to get up in the morning and come to the kitchen for coffee and a quick greeting before he’s out the door and prepping his bay boat for a day of fishing. Around 5:30 Sandy comes in and gets things started with breakfast for the guests and it’s always been something good. Sandy knows that I like biscuits and gravy, so she made sure that both the biscuits and gravy were available every morning that we were there. Breakfast is served at 6am and usually everyone is present for the morning meal and ready to get going.
Jimmy and our charter captain Jay walked into the kitchen together on Wednesday morning as they had met outside while I was grabbing my gear, so I met Jay in the kitchen while loading up my Yeti mug with coffee. After chatting with Jay for a couple minutes before leaving the lodge, I knew it was going to be a fun day. Within minutes Jay, Jimmy and I were cutting up and laughing and the ride from the lodge down to Venice Marina went by quick. You usually ride with your guide to the marine because the lodge is a few miles up the road from the marina and that gives everyone a chance to get to know your guide a little bit before you launch. In our case, I got to get more information on what was going on down there with the economy and business. I really wanted to hear more about the huge LNG liquified natural gas project down there along highway 23. I was amazed at the size of the exporting operation they are building. When we passed by the building site there must have been at least 50 large cranes moving heavy objects and the project is putting thousands of people to work. Jay told me there were at least seven thousand employees at present and the next phase of the operation would employee another seven thousand plus. That was just to build the plant. Once it is complete, there will be thousands more employed there. It was an amazing site to see, and I was happy that it was still going after listening to the current administration saying they were going to shut down operations such as the LNG plant. The plant will inject millions and millions of dollars into the economy down there.
When we got to the Venice Marina there were boats launching and a few big tuna boats picking up the last of the guests at the docks but most of the tuna boats leave very very early in the morning. Jay told us that the winds were steady at 10 mph which was at the top of the safety scale for us, but it was still doable if we wanted to get out past the mouth of the river and go offshore a few miles for our snapper limits. He said it would be a little rough getting out there, especially at the mouth of the pass, but he thought it would be fine in his 24-foot bay boat. The ride out from the marina is always pretty cool. There are different ways to get to the gulf from the marina and different options at the mouth of the Mississippi. Where the river dumps into the gulf, the end of the line is feathered into different channels or “passes” as it is referred to. Depending on the location of the pass is how it gets its name. The main three are the South Pass, Southeast Pass and Southwest Pass. All three are big enough to allow the giant cargo ships and oil tankers to pass through on their way upriver into areas closer to the city of New Orleans. The three main passes all come together and join into the main river, as the passes give the large ships a way to spread out instead of having a lot of ships trying to converge into the same area. The Army Corps of Engineers keeps the passes dredged and they are usually working 24/7 out there in the passes keeping the channels deep while removing tons of sediment from the river. Here’s a video from the Venice marina just before leaving out on Wednesday.
We chose the Southwest pass on Wednesday morning because Jay had been out the day before and found fish near a big channel buoy just a mile or so outside the end of the rock jetty at the mouth of the Southwest pass. I gotta admit that it was a little bit rough on the way out of the pass but on the way down the pass it wasn’t bad. About the only thrill I got on the way out was overtaking a large container ship with a tender boat moving along with the big ship to bring the local pilot back to shore once the big container ship cleared the river area. Local pilots are always used to navigate the big container ships, oil tankers and cruise liners through the passes, either coming upriver or going out into the gulf. On our way out we had the pleasure of overtaking the container ship and tender boat and I was able to get a quick video of the before and after. It was a little rough during the actual overtaking so I cut the video so I could hang on with both hands. These videos can give you a sense of what it was like during our run down the Southwest Pass.
That video doesn’t really give the size of the wake from that tender any justice, but I gotta say that Jay did an excellent job in navigating those big waves and I was impressed that we were all still completely dry at the end of the process. As we neared the end of the pass the big swells or “rollers” started coming into the pass and we were going up a big swell and then going down a big swell instead of the smooth flat 30 mph ride we were accustomed to. As I looked off to my left, I could see waves breaking over the top of the rock jetty and I thought that those waves had to be at least 4-5 feet tall to be breaking over to top of the rocks at the jetty and I was thankful we didn’t have to contend with those breakers. There are rolling waves and there are breaking waves out at the mouth of the passes. Ideally you want rollers instead of “breakers” because breakers are the kind of waves that break over the top and can swamp a boat before you can get to the top of the wave. Breakers usually happen when the wind is excessive and pushing against an outgoing current. Rollers are just calm swells that a smaller bay boat can ride over the top of with ease. As we got nearer to the mouth of the pass, we made a left turn and headed towards an opening in the jetty. This is called a cut, and the cut is usually a cut-through hole in the rock jetty for smaller boats to get out into the gulf a little quicker. We were heading straight for the cut-through and I could see large breakers at the mouth. Here is a short video I made of the big breakers crashing into the jetty. The jetty is 5-6 feet above the waterline, so I could tell it was going to be tough to get through.
I heard Jimmy and Jay have a short conversation about the size of the breakers and Jay turned back to me as I was seated behind and just to the left of Jay. He told me that it was going to be a little rough, but we’d give it a go. That’s about the time the adrenaline started pumping a little faster because in that short period of time I was looking straight at a giant washtub of breaking waves about 100 yards in front of our bow and I knew we were going to get wet. The biggest question was how wet we were going to get? At that point I took the attitude that if it doesn’t kill you, it can usually make a good story, so I was all in.
“I’d like to say something about that decision to tackle those waves even though it was reminiscent of some of those Hanover Inlet fail videos where unsuspecting boats get thrashed about and swamped from the huge breakers at the mouth of the inlet. Although there was an element of danger, we all three agreed to put the hammer down and go. It reminded me of years ago when I made a very similar decision in a story called Man Camp. Even though there was an element of danger I made the decision to take the Jon boat out into dangerous water in order to make it to our camp. Had I not made that decision, there would be no story to write about. Sometimes you have to take chances to make memories and I’d rather say that I did it, rather than saying I didn’t want to take a chance. Then again, I’ve done a lot of very stupid things in my life, so there’s that”….
There were mistakes made by me during the next few minutes of our ride and one major mistake was wanting to see what was happening, so I had seated myself on the left rear corner seat of the boat just behind Jays left shoulder because I want to hang on but still have full view of this display of seamanship from Jay. This was my view during calmer times and this video gives you an idea of the seating arrangements.
When we hit those breakers, it was immediately everything I thought it would be and more. We were running, gunning, dodging, slipping, sliding, and maybe even jumping waves at one point and that’s about when that old adrenaline rush hit level AR-twelveteen. Jay was working that throttle back and forth, trying to time our advancement through the maze of breakers while I was in the back in deep silent prayer. Jay was trying to figure out a navigational path and anticipate what was going to happen with the boat in rough seas. When I opened my eyes, I got smacked upside of my head by a couple sucker punch waves from the left before the haymaker came in a frontal attack. It was like a scene from that movie “The Perfect Storm” with Clooney and Wahlberg when they were climbing that huge wave, and they didn’t quite make it. Our skiff was going vertical to climb a big wave before it broke over, but unfortunately it broke over before we made it to the top. I saw a wall of water heading straight at us and my first thought was that this this was going to hurt….bad. My second thought was more of a question of my sanity when I realized that I could have used Jay and Jimmy as shelter if I just would have scooted over about 3 feet to my right but no, if there was danger, I wanted to get slapped right in the face with it rather than getting out of the way of it.
The wall of water from the break of the huge wave hit us all head on and immediately the boat shuttered and came to a stop from being swamped by the top of the wave. We punched through the wave but not before we took on the wall of water at the top. Everything inside the boat was floating and I was sitting in water up to my knees. My left ear filled with water, and I was completely soak from head to toe, The good part was that I was still inside the boat and the motor was still running. I knew we had a chance if the motor would move the boat and the scuffers and bilge pump worked properly. Jay kept navigating through the breakers and after a few minutes the water had drained, and we were through the cut. All we had to contend with at that point was big rollers but no breakers.
I finally heard the motor slow way down and we stopped near some underwater structure in about 50 feet of water. We used big Penn Battle III 5000 spinning reels with 5-ounce weights and a big piece of dead shrimp on a circle hook dropped down to the sandy smooth bottom. It didn’t take long till the first fish was brought on board but not the species we were hoping for. We just brought up some hard-heads or saltwater catfish and croakers, so we pushed on to the next stop. We pulled up to one of the huge red channel buoys a mile outside the southwest pass and hit the spot lock on the trolling motor to hold us in place. Jay told us that the snapper like to hang around the big chain holding the buoy in place. He was right and on my first drop I brought in my first red snapper.
Shortly after Jimmy brought one up and we were both on the board for our first red snapper. We kept working and putting fish in the boat then Jimmy started showing off, first with a big bull redfish that we had to release and then Jimmy caught his first Jack Crevalle, and it was a big one.
It wasn’t very long till we put our 8th snapper in the box, and we were making our way back to the mouth of the river, with one change in the navigational plans. We wouldn’t be going back through the same cut that almost swamped us out. We would be going into the main entrance to the southwest pass instead of trying to take the shortcut back through the dangerous cut. It took about an hour to make our way back into the marshy areas where we wanted to look for redfish and before long, we were beating the banks for reds. It was windy in the marsh, and we just couldn’t fill up a limit of reds apiece, but Jimmy and I put 5-6 in the boat out of a possible 10 fish limit before heading back to the marina. It was a good day even though we didn’t get our limits of redfish and we had a pretty decent story to tell about getting out to catch our first snapper.
After cleaning our catch at the cleaning house we got cleaned up and settled into the lodge for the evening. Another group of fishermen came in from Tn. and we had a whole new group of fisherman to visit with. The hours passed by quick in the afternoon and before long we were back at the dinner table for another fine meal. After dinner there was more chatting before turning in for the evening.
Day 2 started at 4 am for me, in the kitchen making coffee and checking the weather forecast. The second day for us was Thursday, our last fishing day and it was supposed to be much calmer winds than the day before. We had a good breakfast and soon Jay, Jimmy and I were on our way back down highway 23, heading back to Venice Marina. We laughed about the day before and conquering the breaking waves at the shortcut at the end of the Southwest pass. The day before, shortly after surviving the breaking waves I gave Jay a new nickname, JBa*** or JB for short. He liked it and I think the name suited him well. Jay could have easily said that the wind was too extreme to get out on day one, but he was just as anxious to get out as we were, and I loved that kind of passion when it comes to fishing. It wasn’t long and we were backing the big skiff away from the dock and we were on our way back out into the gulf. This time we were going out via the South Pass rather than the Southwest Pass. It was a little foggy on our way out, but JB had a radar on the boat which made it a little easier to see the boat traffic in the pass as we navigated the channel in the fog. It took about an hour to get close to the mouth and traffic was light. As we neared the end we started going up and down rollers that were coming into the pass and the last of the rock jetties were seen to the left and right. The rollers were smooth which made it somewhat easy to navigate at faster speeds. About two miles outside the mouth of the South Pass we pulled up to another large navigational red buoy and hit the spot lock. On our first drop we caught a larger snapper and then another and another. There was a nice mix between 3lb up to 10lb snapper and it only took an hour to finish our limits before heading back inshore to attempt another two limits of redfish.
Once we got back inside the marsh, we found a few little ponds and cuts and we were able to find a couple redfish to put into the box, but we were running out of time and only had about an hour left to catch about 6 more redfish to cap off limits for Jimmy and me. We pulled into one area where two separate ponds were separated by a point and the was current from an incoming tide that ran across the point. We put the power poles down within casting distance of the point and the two small ponds, had lunch and caught 6 more redfish plus a few black drum to put in the box and finish off our redfish limits for the day. It was a great way to finish the day with limits of redfish and red snapper. It just doesn’t get any better.
After cleaning our catch back at the lodge, we got cleaned up and settled in for another afternoon. We parted ways with JB and I gotta say that Jay was the best charter captain that I’ve ever had the pleasure of riding with down there and I’ve had some good ones. Jay went above and beyond to show us a good time and Jimmy and I really appreciated it.
Another group came in during the afternoon and there was a whole other group of likeminded fishermen to visit with. By this time the lodge was filling up and the guests at dinner table grew in size again. After dinner we all sat around and talked about our lives and fishing experiences while the hours past. Jimmy and I finally called it a night and turned in. By 3:30am on Friday morning we were loaded up with a good 15-20lbs of red snapper and redfish filets and our luggage and headed back home. As we passed through Belle Chase that morning, I quietly watched out the window and as we got closer to where I made my home for four years while in the Navy. I quietly saw landmarks out the window at 4am that brought back old dormmate memories, long forgotten by time and it took me back some 30 years ago. Those old memories are some of the best memories from my life and these trips back help rekindle a few every time.
Our ride home was quick and uneventful, and I can honestly say that this one was one for the books!